Israel, A Mediterranean Sea Nation

I lived much of my life in the beautiful area of western Colorado - west of Denver. The region is known for its beautiful mountains, exotic wildlife, and legendary ski slopes due to the high mountains and dry snowy climate. I am just a bit embarrassed to admit that skiing never appealed to me. My favorite outdoor activities have always involved water. Fishing, swimming, rafting, wading through streams, and simply sitting by the water to meditate and appreciate nature's blessings appeal to me. 

Colorado did offer whitewater rafting, canoeing, motorboats, swimming, fishing and other water activities; I, however, did tire of the snow, wind, and ice and at the age of fifty nine decided to join many other retirees and seek a warm climate. Among the reasons that I chose to spend my golden years in Haifa is the balmy climate and location on the Mediterranean Sea.

Israel is also a small nation that offers many lakes and streams to savor. The Sea of Galilee (Lake Kinneret in Israel) is the best known of the lakes, and is only an hour or so from my home in Haifa.

Haifa offers many public and private beaches. This is the Hof Ha Carmel which is one of Haifa's veteran beaches. It is located in Haifa's entrance and is one of Haifa's more central beaches. Hof HaCarnel beach is located within a walking distance of the central bus and train stations. This beach holds many surprises, such as: fine eastern restaurants, pubs with ocean side views and Wi-Fi connection, for those who just can't stay disconnected, as well as weekly public dance nights. There is a tayelat or board walk, nice sandy beaches and the water is clear but often (during spring to summer time) filled with meduzot or jelly fish. They are nasty. I enjoy just sitting at the Camel Restaurant, sipping a drink, and "kibbutzing" with the tourists and visitors from our own community. There are visitors from all over the world and many Russian speaking. I often sit at the Camel and listen to several languages being spoken around me at the same time. There is surfing, scuba diving, fishing and of course swimming in the beach area. I often enjoy a leisurely stroll along the promenade except in late July, August, and early September.  In these months the heat and humidity can be stifling except in the very early morning and late evening.

The Bat Galim Promenade is spread along the length of the seashore of the peaceful Bat Galim neighborhood. Bat Galim is a residential area but is also filled with restaurants, coffee shops, a diving center, surfer club and the lower cable car station. The panoramic cable car connects to Stella Maris Church and Monastery, where a spectacular view of the Haifa Bay can be seen.  Stella Maris Church is the home of the Carmelite order and close to the tomb of Elijah the Prophet. The waterfront in the area is serene and usually quiet.

The area near Bat Galim offers two wonderful museums relating to the sea. They are less than a mile apart and close to the ocean and the Tomb of Elijah.

The National Maritime Museum is devoted to the maritime history of the Mediterranean basin, the Red Sea and the Nile, and its collection presents 5,000 years of maritime history.  The Museum collection came into being in 1953 as the private collection of its founder and first director, the late Aryeh Ben-Eli. 

It now belongs to the Haifa Museums Corporation. The building's entrance floor contains the temporary exhibition galleries. The upper and lower display floors are dedicated to the Museum's permanent exhibitions. The permanent exhibition presents man's connection to the sea at different historical moments. The display is dedicated to the following subjects: maritime archaeology; ancient anchors; Greco-Roman coins; fish and dolphins; scientific apparatuses; storage jars for maritime trade (the Collection in Memory of David Kenneth); the Mediterranean: its ports and islands - Phoenician ports and ports in the ancient land of Israel; cartography and graphics (the Carl and Lee Handler Collection); shipping innovations; maritime battles; and maritime construction.

The most prominent objects in the display are ship models; maritime archaeological artifacts: pottery, coins and seals; and a large collection of ancient maps and engravings that is divided among the various sections. In addition to its permanent exhibitions, the Museum also features temporary exhibitions from its collections, and exhibitions of works by local and international artists on maritime themes. I tour the museum on my own with the aid of flyers and brochures available at the entrance in several languages. 

The Clandestine Immigration and Naval Museum, Haifa

This museum is dedicated to telling the story of the struggle for the right to immigrate to Israel during the years 1934 – 1948 when the British Mandate was in operation. The British controlled the region during the era of Nazi Tyranny. Sadly, they limited the emigration of European Jewry while millions died. Some Jews were permitted to enter Palestine legally while many others entered through clandestine operations. This is a chapter of Israeli history which deals with Jewish clandestine immigration and the right to settle here. It is one of the cornerstones of the establishment of the State of Israel. This story is displayed in the museum and includes: historic documents, newspaper clippings, photos, original models, audio visual materials and films, and clandestine vessels. The most famous of these ships was the Exodus, immortalized in the Leon Uris book and movie of the same name.

A special wing of the museum is devoted to the history of the Israeli navy, whose roots go back to this very clandestine immigration operation at the time of the British Mandate. Also included in this naval display are photos, certificates, sketches of skirmishes with the British authorities, models of the ships, original exhibits, and finally, examples of arms and weaponry which were used in naval warfare during that time.

The clandestine immigration ship, the Af al Pi Chen (in spite of all that) played its own part during the Second World War as a landing craft for tanks. It was then converted into a clandestine immigration ship by the people who were instrumental in organizing the Second Aliyah (the Mossad le-Aliyah Bet). The ship has been preserved in its entirety, both its external structure and its fittings and accessories. Many of the members of Aliya Bet were English speaking volunteers including hundreds of Americans.

The first section of this naval exhibition deals with the early beginnings of Israel's navy. This includes the story of the people who created the navy, as well as how the illegal immigration ships were transformed into war ships. It is hard to believe that these people in these very vessels actually realized their dream, the creation of the State of Israel in 1948. 

The second section depicts the 1950s, when Israel's navy fleet first set sail throughout the length and breadth of the ocean deep, while its commando ships were gradually becoming more and more refined. Israel's navy played its part in the Sinai War, even gaining significant reinforcements from unexpected sources to add to the already-existing number of destroyers.

The third section deals with the 1960s and the beginning of the 1970s. Starting with the stinging naval failures of the Six Day War, which were followed by two disasters in which heavy naval casualties were inflicted. The Israeli navy later implemented dramatic changes which culminated in the truly astounding victories of the Yom Kippur War. The Israeli navy also plays an important part in the war against terrorism by patrolling the nation's coasts.

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