Hiking and Camping in Israel

Last night, which was Friday, I was sitting in my favorite watering hole in Haifa, The Kapiot Restaurant. I was sipping on a diet coke and overheard the couple next to me speak in a deep southern accent about their home in Atlanta Georgia. They brought up the fact that Atlanta is an urban area but the areas north of them are somewhat mountainous and offer plenty of hiking and fishing. Myra asked her husband and everyone in the cafe if Israel has trails and wildlife."We are both outdoors people", she explained. They are here in Haifa for a one month seminar at The University of Haifa. I reassured them that Israel has lots of outdoor activities.The school adjoins a large wildlife reserve and nature center. "You can walk to the east end of the school and hike for hours", I told her with glee.

I am a former Coloradan now living in Israel. I still have my passion for the outdoors, and I was pleasantly surprised to learn that many Israelis share the same enthusiasm. Israel has an abundant amount of trails, outdoors scenery, nature reserves, and wildlife. The northern part of the country is mountainous and filled with greenery, while the south is desert.

The Israel National Trail is a hiking path that crosses the entire country of Israel. The northern end of the trail begins at the Lebanese border, and the Southern end of the trail is at Eilat. The total length of the trail is 940 km (580 miles). The level of difficulty varies in different parts of the trail. It is the highlight of nature activities for citizens and visitors. 

Hikers can seek help from “trail angels” who offer short term shelter. There are lawns for sleeping bags, couches to sleep on, a room with a shower, or a pickup from the trail. For example, at Kibbutz Yagur, a soldier leaves the key to her room for hikers who need a place to sleep, and a farmer in Hadera forest offers sleeping quarters in exchange for a day’s work. As a matter of fact, recently I met four hikers from Holland who were hosted by an Israeli family in the Northern end of the trail. They were wildly enthusiastic about the trek, and the warm reception by their new Israeli friends.

Hikers among this glorious trail pass among others these four historic sites- Mount Tabor, Tzipory Stream, Mount Carmel, and the Judean Mountains. The trail takes hikers up the Tabor and around the monasteries on its peak, near the remains of ancient walls, corner towers, caves, exposed antiquities, spring blossoms and of course, views to any direction from the sides of the mountain. Along the trail are streams of flowing water, like the Tzipori Stream, with improvised water pumps and a castle named "The Monks Mill" (Takhanat HaNezirim) and the remains of another impressive gristmill at the Alil ruins (Khurbat Alil). Mount Carmel has a special appeal to me. It is claimed that Elijah the Prophet lived his nomadic life in the area. I love to study the Biblical history of this region. Elijah is revered as a prophet by Christians, Jews, Muslims, and our Druze friends. 

Hikers on Israeli Trail

I live in the Mount Carmel region. This is mountain range that overlooks the sea. Hikers on the trail can take a break and enjoy the sea. There are many dirt trails that lead in and out of the mountain. The area is abundant with trees and other greenery, and many types of wild-life. Near Atlit there are Neanderthal caves, ancient olive oil presses, and wonderful beaches to visit, like Tantura. There are spots in which you can rent dirt bikes, and leave them at designated spots along the trail.

Shayarot Range at the Judean Mountains offers a view down to the Coastal Plain and up to the Judean Mountains, hundreds of kilometers of mountain dirt tracks, walking routes, caves, and an abundance of flowers in the spring.

I might still suggest, for those of you who are avid hikers and campers to bring high quality equipment. It is still amazing to me that you can have so much diversity in a 580 mile radius. In many countries the experience of history is usually embodied in museum settings, here you can do this while enjoying the outdoors. Public transportation is adequate enough that you can start your hike at almost any spot along the trail. It is important to tell the readers that temperatures can get very high in the summer, and it is rainy and windy in the winter. I therefore try to do most of my hiking during the spring and fall. Many parts of the trail cross urban areas for those who prefer the comforts of a hotel for their sleep needs.

Hikers on the Israeli National Trail

It is important to note that the Green Line is respected through the whole length of the trail. People from all over the world enjoy sharing this experience. This is a pleasant and surprising part of life in Israel that I wanted to share with the readers.

Benny Goodman, The King of Swing

I am sitting in my small but pleasant home in Haifa Israel. My home is located in the 'Mercaz' or center neighborhood of the city. The beautiful Baha'i Gardens are located a few hundred meters from my house. The gardens overlook the Haifa port laden with commercial and passenger ships and supposedly enough energy to make us fabulously wealthy in twenty years. Many of our museums and the city Zoo are in this upscale community. There is plenty of 'keff' or entertainment to enjoy within a close walking distance of my abode.

Savoring Jazz especially from the big band era is still my favorite way to enjoy my leisure time. Bix is most probably my favorite jazz legend. Leon Bismark "Bix" Beiderbecke (March 10, 1903 – August 6, 1931) was an American jazz cornet genius, jazz pianist, and composer. Sadly, there is a very limited number of his recordings due to the age of his death and the era in which he played. How do you describe Louis Armstrong or fail to love the piano and raspy voice of Fats Waller?. Lester Young was a wizard on the saxophone. I have several of his recordings. They were many incredible artists in that era. However, I have come to understand why Benny Goodman was “The king of Swing”. My collection of discs is becoming dominated by the great clarinet virtuoso.

Benjamin David "Benny" Goodman (May 30, 1909 – June 13, 1986) was an American jazz and swing musician, clarinetist and bandleader; known as the "King of Swing".

Goodman's bands launched the careers of many major names in jazz, and during an era of segregation,  also led one of the first well-known racially integrated jazz groups. Pianist Teddy Wilson and Vibraphone legend Lionel Hampton found fame with Benny. Goodman was a classical music performer as well. His background from his poor Jewish working class family made him a staunch supporter of talent over ethnicity. Many of the early Jazz greats came from Jewish backgrounds or were people of color. Other careers were often limited or denied from them.

Goodman was born in Chicago, one of twelve children.  He came from a poor Russian Jewish immigrant background. His father was a working-class immigrant who shoveled manure in the famous windy city stockyards. His family, as did mine, came to America in that era from Europe to escape the strident antisemitism that was so prevalent and enjoy the economic opportunities in the States.

When Benny was 10, he started studying music at a local synagogue. He was trained in both popular and classical music. His early jazz influences were New Orleans jazz clarinetists working in Chicago, notably Johnny Dodds, and Jimmy Noone. He came to predominance at a young age. When Goodman was 14, he was already in a band that featured the legendary Bix Beiderbecke. At the age of 16, he joined one of Chicago's top bands, the Ben Pollack Orchestra, with which he made his first recordings in 1926. Ben Pollack (June 22, 1903 - June 7, 1971) was an American drummer and bandleader from the mid-1920s through the swing era. 

His eye for talent led him to either discover or employ, at one time or another, musicians such as Benny, Jack Teagarden, Glenn Miller, and Harry James. This ability earned him the nickname "Father of Swing". Goodman left for New York City and became a successful band leader and recording artist. The Taft hotel was a family favorite when we visited the Big Apple during my youth. It was one of the early hot spots for big band and jazz in New York hosting such greats as Glenn Miller and Jimmy Dorsey. We enjoyed listening to the fabulous Vincent Lopez Orchestra in the historic ball room. 

During this period he met promoter John Hammond who arranged for a series of jazz sides recorded for and issued on Columbia starting in 1933 and continuing until his signing with Victor in 1935, during his success on radio. He made many classic recordings with many known performers.They included the first two recorded vocals by a young Billie Holiday. Goodman did recordings with the great Coleman Hawkins. For fans of the jazz saxophone his music is a must. I have many of the "Beans" recordings which are among the earliest Jazz sax legends.

In July 1935, a record of the Goodman band playing the Henderson arrangements of "King Porter Stomp" backed with "Sometimes I'm Happy" had been released to ecstatic reviewers in both Down Beat and Melody Maker Magazines. Reports were that in my home town of Pittsburgh at the Stanley Theater some of the kids danced in the aisles. The Benedum Center for the Performing Arts is a theater and concert hall located at 719 Liberty Avenue in the Cultural District of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Designed by Philadelphia's architectural firm Hoffman-Henon. It was built in 1928 as The Stanley Theatre. The former movie palace was renovated and reopened as The Benedum Center for the Performing Arts in 1987. In the days of my youth Shady Side had some recognition as a jazz center.


August 21, 1935 at the Palomar Ballroom in Los Angeles, Goodman and his band began a three-week engagement. Musical history was made that evening. Goodman started the evening with stock arrangements, but after an indifferent response, began the second set with the arrangements by Fletcher Henderson and Spud Murphy. The crowd broke into cheers and applause. News reports spread word of the enthusiastic dancing and exciting new music that was happening. Over the course of the engagement, the "Jitterbug" began to appear as a new dance craze, and radio broadcasts carried the band's performances across the nation.


The Palomar engagement was such a marked success it is often described as the beginning of the Swing Era. Goodman went on to an illustrious career as a solo performer, band leader, and composer in both jazz and classical music. Benny played almost until his death in 1986. He became a highly respected classical performer. In the mid-1930s, Benny Goodman led one of the most popular musical groups in America. His January 16, 1938 concert at Carnegie Hall in New York City is described by critics as "the single most important jazz or popular music concert in history: jazz's 'coming out' party to the world of 'respectable' music." The roots of this great American contribution to the world lay in New Orleans but Chicago by the era of Goodman became a center for this music as well. The soundtrack of that historic event is still recording and is one of my favorites.

The big band era faded to a great extent in the World War II years. Vocalists began to strike out on their own and by the end of the war, Swing was giving way to less dance able music. 

As jazz evolved and expanded in new directions, major band performances of note did occur from the 1950s to the 1970s including performers such as Dizzy Gillespie, Gene Krupa, Buddy Rich. John Birks "Dizzy" Gillespie (October 21, 1917 – January 6, 1993) was an American jazz trumpeter, bandleader, composer and occasional singer. His legendary piece 'A Night in Tunisia' is one of my favorite jazz trumpet performances.

Goodman was regarded by some as a demanding taskmaster. Many musicians spoke of Goodman's trademark glare that he bestowed on a musician who failed to perform to his demanding standards. He was hardest on himself as are most great performers. I just read a biography about Jazz dancer Fred Astaire. Astaire performed in the same era as Benny. He often practiced his dance steps to the point that his feet bled. His partners held in great respect but also felt intimidated by his need for perfection.

One of Benny Goodman's closest friends off and on, from the 1930s onward, was celebrated Columbia records producer John H. Hammond. He was Benny's mentor in the recording world. Goodman married Hammond's sister Alice in 1942. They had two daughters, neither of whom gained musical fame.

I was blessed that my mom and dad were raising me during the era of Swing. Our greatest joys together came as the result of listening to swing era music and enjoying my feeble attempts to learn to jitterbug. Hopefully, some of the readers will be prompted to enjoy America's wonderful cultural gift to us all.

Alexa, The Perils of Youth and Old Age by Alexandra Lednichenko

My friend Alexa and I were sitting at my favorite cafe in Haifa, the Kapiot café, discussing my concerns about my age related tipshoot (silly) behavior. I turned sixty five in April. The once twenty minute walk to the cafe now takes thirty. It is more due to the fact that I almost always seem to forget something than physical conditioning. I forgot my ex- wife's birthday for the first time in March. It was on my calendar which I neglected to review. Beautiful young women like Alexa now seem like granddaughters of grade school age. My once healthy appetite for dining has greatly dissipated. Alexa tried to reassure me that things are not as bleak as they seem. "Earl, I do silly things at my age," she mused. She blames her mistakes on being twenty. My buddy is just finishing her military service with the Israeli Army. Alexa recounted this sad tale: 

"I arrived at the Haifa Lev Hamifratz bus station at 7:00 AM this morning. The second that I stepped out of the bus I realized that I won’t be getting to Tel Aviv as planned. The special bus lines that they bring in for soldiers, which I was hoping to board, are only relevant on Sundays. After a short calculation I discovered that today was NOT a Sunday, but a Tuesday. Boarding a train wasn't an option either, as the same rule applies. That was stupid act number one!

I hesitated for a while, shifting my weight on the platform from one foot to another like a ballerina on a warm up. I decided to go to Jerusalem in a hope of catching the 8:45 AM bus to my army base. Two minutes after departure, I realized that I could board a train to Tel Aviv. Since, again, it was not a Sunday (and the public transportation restrictions for soldiers only extend as far as Sundays). Ouch, I goofed again!

My arrival at Jerusalem was at 9:30 AM. The central bus station doesn't quite look and smell like a daisy field of lovely blossoms, but it’s still better than Tel Aviv’s balagan (mad house) of crazy people looking like convicted murderers, blood curdling music and nauseating, poisonous food. I was already quite upset about the earlier degradation in my brain activity, and the fact that I missed the bus didn't help lifting up my spirits. To summarize: I was frustrated, and had loads of time to spare till the next bus to the base (12:45 PM), I was starting to feel hungry. It was a very grim looking state of affairs indeed.

But, of course, a brave young soldier wouldn't let minor misfortunes discourage her. I decided to find a place to sit and roll a cigarette. Humming the “Two and a Half Men” opening theme, I rolled a beautiful cigarette that could be the envy of many. I took a moment to glow with pride in my ever-expanding skill.

Still humming, I went out to the platform to smoke this work of art. There were herds of people outside, many of them soldiers. I smoked quietly oblivious to the rumblings of the world around me.

Upon finishing the cigarette, I approached the door and pushed it. However, to my genuine amazement, it didn't budge. Perfect! I thought to myself, and tried to push it again. Being a rational, quick-witted adult, I reckoned this might be a pull door and not a push door. Therefore, I started looking feverishly for a handle that I could pull. It was then that I heard it.

“Are you getting tired yet”, a voice called to me from behind. I turned to the left to discover an amused looking 'Magav' soldier who was following my actions with a look full of wonder. He might have been a child witnessing the fireworks for the very first time.

“Yes…looks like I don’t even have enough strength to push the damned door.” I cracked something that was meant to be a charming smile, but it turned out to look more like a grimace. He smiled and took a sip from his coke.

"Yeah…well, it’s a window, not a door", he pronounced. "Try the one to your right.” Once again I committed a mental folly.

I blinked at him. For all I knew, he could have just said that a pair of unicorns was giving free haircuts outside the station. Looking to my right I saw a doorknob, a door! I swallowed and pulled it, deciding not to speak for a while. Should I crawl away and hide somewhere? Yes, that would be the right thing to do.

So here I am now… humming no more, feeling like the most mentally challenged creature on the planet. When did this start happening? When did I go all foolish like this? How many people have noticed?

I think I should stop going outside, unless absolutely necessary, I should wear a sign around my neck saying: "dangerous when thinking”. It might clear up lots of confusion…"

I listened to her quietly, when a smile crossed my face. Age has always been a troubling issue. You could be in a place in your life when you're longing to grow up, or quite the opposite - you might have just started thinking about striking a deal with the devil to stop the time from seeping right through your fingers. There is no way around it, since we live on borrowed time and our days are numbered. But upon hearing this amusing story, I came to think that perhaps the only thing we could do to make the living meaningful, is to trick time. Do things inappropriate of your age - eat a steak at 10 AM in the morning, pull a push door, be that strange bird that just wouldn't sit on the perch assigned to it. Be twenty at the age of sixty, be that child that nobody believed you could be. It might just make your sun shine brighter.

Thank you, Alexa, for reassuring me that we all have our weak moments and that age may not be the only issue in my case. 

This is a short update to the post. My friend just completed her military service and is now preparing for her college entrance exams and of course seeking true love. Stay tuned for more about Alexa and life in Haifa Israel.

A Nation of Remembrance, Tisha B'Av in Israel

Today is Tisha B'Av the ninth of the Hebrew month Av. It is a day of commemoration mourning, and penance. 

Understanding the culture of Israel is a great challenge to many new 'Olim' or immigrants like me. Israel is a nation where the Jewish faith and history are very much a part of daily life. It is a nation where the horrors of the Holocaust are not and must not be forgotten. We remember the destruction of the ancient temples in Jerusalem in our hearts and prayers. "Next Year in Jerusalem" is the prayer that mourns our past suffering, but also gives us hope for the present and future. Tisha B’Av is a day on which Jews commemorate these events. This day mourns the destruction of the First and Second Temples in Jerusalem and all suffering endured by the people of the Book. It is a day of fasting and other acts of observance. Businesses and schools may be open, depending on the type of service or affiliation.

My most satisfying experience in Israel was working in a 'Moadonit' or after school program in my Synagogue, Or Hadash in Haifa. This event occurred during Tisha B’Av in the summer of 2009. It helped me to understand the Israeli culture and appreciate the challenges, struggles, and at times great sorrows involved in building this nation.

Forty kids aged six to ten enjoyed various summer activities including volleyball, soccer, and dodge ball. The director, Yaffa, also gave a one hour presentation describing the building and destruction of both Temples. We also discussed the Holocaust and Israel’s Memorial Day. More than twenty thousand Israelis have died in open conflicts or by acts of terrorism since the rebirth of the Jewish state in 1948. The Holocaust is almost always in the minds and hearts of Israeli Jews. We must never forget the murders of millions whose only sin was being born Jewish or having Jewish ancestors.

We had a short question and answer period after the presentation. I was surprised that none of the kids complained or asked why we talked about these topics during summer fun time. I asked my two English speaking “friends” in the group Naomi (8) and Shachar (7) to explain everyone’s cooperation. Naomi spent two years in Boston and answered in wonderful English; “most Israeli kids understand that remembering the past protects us in the present and future”. Shachar, an American olah, agreed and showed great pride in her new Israeli citizenship.

The following day, we had a group of visitors from Boston come to visit the Synagogue. The group was composed of roughly one hundred adults and kids from a sister congregation. We enjoyed dinner together and then went on a tour of the Temple’s bomb shelter. The shelter is an area of three hundred square feet that also includes a separate bathroom, shower, and a first aid room. During the second war with Lebanon the twenty kids from our day school and fifty local children spent their days alternating between the shelter and our school facility. Each time a siren wailed the kids and staff ran down the three floors from the classroom to safety. Our previous past congregation president Jesse led the tour and explained to us that many Haifa residents left the city during the fighting but many chose to stay.

Jesse, who is a physician and American born, mentioned to me that my friend Naomi and her family chose to stay. Six years after immigrating to Israel I have sadly experienced the fighting in Gaza as a resident of Haifa. The need to seek safety in a bomb shelter is a terrifying experience. My friends and family in both Israel and Palestine went through the days filled with anxiety about their well being and that of others. Many of these people were raised with the need to sleep in safe places. Children were forced to miss classes; parents stayed away from work due to threat of missile attacks. 

When will all of this ever end?  History has taught the people of Israel and the Jewish nation that we must have a nation of our own. The options could be even far worse than the struggle to defend ourselves. 

Food and Dining in Haifa Israel

When I immigrated to Haifa six years ago at the age of fifty nine, I was concerned about learning a new language, making friends, adjusting to a new culture and eating properly. Food was almost certainly my primary source of anxiety.



My fears were quickly removed. Israel has most American cuisine and much more to offer citizens and visitors. Bagel is a household name and in this day and age most Americans find that bagel and cream cheese is almost as common as mum and apple pie. Bagels and cream cheese are standing dining fares in many Israeli cafes. Smoked salmon is available but somewhat more difficult to find. Pizza Hut, McDonald’s, Burger King and Dominoes are an integral part of Israeli society. For those of us who can’t live without a Big Mac or Pizza Hut, don’t worry-be happy! Whilst the Hebrew language may date back five thousand years, the most universal words in this land seem to be 'Shalom' and 'Pizza please'!

One of the wonderful things about living in a multicultural society like Israel is that there are many distinctive types of menus on offer. It is also common to sit at an eatery and to share dinner and conversation with people from a myriad of backgrounds in several languages. I am sitting at my favorite cafe, the Kapiot, listening to fellow diners conversing in Hebrew, Arabic, English, and Russian. The cafe is located in the Mercaz or center neighborhood or our city. The Baha'i Gardens is located a few hundred meters from here. Therefore, the neighborhood is filled with upscale hotels, a complete variety of restaurant choices, and numerous food stores.

The Israeli diet is rich in vegetables, fruit, salads, and dairy products. The staples of the Israeli diet are humus, falafel, and Israeli salad. Humus and falafel are chickpea products. Humus is a paste like form of chickpea usually eaten with pita bread. Falafel is chickpea formed into small balls, fried, and eaten in a pita bread as a sandwich. Both are eaten with or without vegetables and several possible sauces. Israeli salad is a combination of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and parsley, served with Israeli salad dressing, a combination of salt, lemon and olive oil. These culinary treats are now enjoyed throughout the world.

Israelis enjoy a barbecue at least once a month. Lamb kebab, chicken breasts, beef flanks, and shawarma or roasted lamb are the favorite meat choices. Yes! Israelis like a cold beer, a glass of wine, and even Jack Daniels. The balmy climate and abundance of parks allow Haifa residents to enjoy their outings throughout much of the year.

Haifa is a sea front community that offers you the choice of dining in modern western style malls or traditional culinary spots. We have a taiyelet or boardwalk lined with cafes and food stands. There is dining on the seashore with the Mediterranean as an aesthetic backdrop. Due to the nature of the Israeli diet, food costs are often lower than in the United States. American style grocery stores abound in Israel, as do small local shops and the shuks or outdoor markets. The larger grocery stores do carry American canned and packaged products such as Oreos and Campbell’s soup. They also offer non-grocery items such as health care products, beauty aids and clothing. Most stores and restaurants in Israel accept major credit cards although some accept only those issued in Israel. Most Tourist Bureaus offer a comprehensive list of local dining.


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Kababir Home of Israel's Muslim Ahmadiyya and Peaceful Coexistence.

My greatest joy in living in the city of Haifa is the peaceful coexistence
of its citizens. The city is also beautiful. It is on the Mediterranean with a tayelet or boardwalk and active commercial port.

Haifa is a city dotted with gardens. The most prominent is at the world center of the Baha’i religion, with the tombs of the Bab (Mirza Muhammad Ali) and Abbas Efendi. The presence of the Baha’i, for so long persecuted in various Middle East countries, is evidence of the tolerant social fabric of this city. The greatest challenge facing this small and brave nation is to promote the values of peace in an area filled with strife and hatred. Haifa is the home of the Tomb of Elijah the Prophet, which is considered one of the holiest and most venerated shrines to Jews, Christians, Muslims, and Druze alike.

One of my favorite communities in Haifa and in Israel is Kababir.
I am fortunate to live in the Mercaz or center part of Haifa which adjoins the wonderful neighborhood.

It is the home of Israel’s Ahmadiyya Muslim community. Most of our two thousand Achmadis live in this pleasant tree lined residential area of Haifa. There are many parks, some neighborhood cafes, schools, grocery stores and the grand Mosque and school for their believers. Many Jewish, some Christian, and a few Druze citizens are living in the quaint neighborhood. There is a breathtaking view of the sea in the bottom of the sloping area.

The Ahmadiyya Muslim Community is the larger of two communities that arose from the Ahmadiyya movement founded in 1889 in India by Mirza Ghulam Ahmad of Qadian (1835–1908). The original movement split into two factions in 1914. (The other branch is the smaller Lahore Ahmadiyya Movement, Ahmadiyya Anjuman Ishaat-i-ahmadiat.)

The community is led by the Khalifatul Masih (“successor of the Messiah”), currently Khalifatul Masih V, who is the spiritual leader of the community and the successor to Mirza Ghulam Ahmad.

Mirza Ghulam Ahmad, the founder of the Ahmadiyya movement, declared that he was the “Promised One” of all religions, fulfilling the eschatological prophecies found in world religions. The motto of the Ahmadiyya Community is “Love for All, Hatred for None”. They first settled in Palestine in 1925 and became part of Israel in 1948.

They built the neighborhood’s first mosque on Mount Carmel in 1931, and a larger grand mosque in the 1980s. The grand mosque has two white minarets standing 34 metres tall, which dominate the low-rise skyline of the residential neighborhoods on the ridges nearby. Mount Carmel is the burial spot of Haifa’s most famous citizen Elijah the prophet. Famous visitors to Kababir include Shimon Peres.

At the beginning, the neighborhood was managed as a commune in which every one of the founding family brothers worked in his occupation and donated its fee to a mutual account. Some of the family members joint the Turkish army, some worked in the Oil refinery in the city of Haifa. Others were involved in building the Port of Haifa.

Today the Achmadis are leaders in education, commerce, and medical care in our community. They are active in promoting dialogue and peace in Haifa. I have been blessed to join them in interfaith sports activities, choirs, community tours, and most importantly friendship. Below an Ahmadiyya Imam and Rabbi share friendship in Haifa.